#which would also require me dying the fabric because I want a very particular color of red

[theda-rison]

The Shirt That Is Two Shirts (And Also, Too Shirts)

Or: Kpop Stylists Are Literally Planning My Demise

Also, I wrote this more than a month ago and I’m finally remembering to post it. Good lordt.

You've heard the tale of the pants that are three pants:

I'm sorry about the constant cropping, Lisa.

Now how about: the shirt that is two shirts?

Sir, I don’t know what that is, but I’m going to have to ask you to stop.

First a wee update on the pants: I STILL HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO MAKE THEM BECAUSE THE SHORTS I WANT TO BUY ARE ALWAYS OUT OF STOCK. And this, on the day of my daughter’s wedding.

Though… I guess when you’re the black goat of the woods with a thousand young, basically every day is the “this, the day of my daughter’s wedding.” Oh, so it’s now somehow MY fault for having so many daughters?? How dare you??

So I was watching the Rebirth stage of WayV’s Turn Back Time (and if someone could explain the difference between the different stages, I would be grateful. Is it just different costuming? The one this shirt is from, the clothes never appear in the music video** so like?? I am confusion.)

**🤡🤡 Ding dong, I am wrong. But we’ll get to that at the end.

Again, watching the video on my phone TOO MUCH AND LATE AT NIGHT. While I had a migraine from looking at the computer screen all day, so: no, I apparently do not like myself. 

A̴̢̛̛̼̗͙͇̯͚͇̘̖̽͐̎̂͐̒͝͠P̸̍̊̇̀͊͑̚͝ͅP̷̰͚̽̊͆̀͒̑L̶̨͔͍̞͓̗͊̐̾̌͛͒̾Y̷̟̳̞̆͌͆͛̉͛͐ ̴̦͕̂̂͒̈̄D̵̩̟̬̠̥̦̮͂͒̂Į̶͕͙͓͚̯͙̥̃̌̋͗̑R̵͔̈̌͘Ẹ̸͎͈͉̫͖͙̓͐̅C̷̛̼̼̺͔̠͍̭̗̘̟̈́̎̂̒̓͐̽̎̕̚T̴̯̀̎̌͂̈́͑̊͝L̸̛͇̻̖͖̅̋̓̀͋͒̀̓̎͘Y̸̪͍͕̜̪͚̅̆̋ ̸̜͇͙͎̰̹͈̎͂̐͠T̸̨̥͉̝͖̰̟̖̪̭̖̍̄̄́O̴̝̹͖̭̔̈́͐͒̆ ̶̧͈̘̗͔̰͖̝̂̇̈̊̒͐͊͂T̸̘͙̰̋̂̀͌̏͋̐̀̇H̶̗̫̰͚͐̾̈́͝ͅȨ̶̡̘͈̻̽͛̈̂̎̉̌̑̋ ̵̡͉̮̈́̂̍͐́̓̈́̚͝Ģ̷̦͍̰̝̼͈͇̇ͅA̴̹͍̍̊Ŗ̴̛͕͇̻̼̠͇̯̮̯̐͊͂̀̈̽̈̎͜͝B̴̧̞̀̿̑́Ḷ̶̻͙̪̲̌́̅̀͑͘͝͝Ė̵̢̧͖͎̰̤͚̠͉̘͍͆̋͗͗̔͠͝F̴̭̤̜͎̝̤̭̤̏͆̀͂͆̇͊͂̓͘L̸̟̫̰̍̌̕͘͠A̸̧̲̩̲͉͛̿͂͌͂̅͆R̴̢̦̽̊͆̉͊͠G̶̢̗͚̼̯͚͈͔̭͋͌͜͝L̵̮̪̩̈͝Ẽ̷̖̲̟̥̲̬͊̋͐̾̓͊͝*

If you were ever like “does she like herself? I wonder.” The answer is “No.”

Something about looking down and whispering? ...I’ll get back to you on it.

So I had a huge fucking migraine and the light was making it worse and I was just squinting at my phone screen like the meme of that lady who stood up after taking a picture and her knees were protesting because like… I really liked this shirt.

And yet you persist sir? How dare you. Who is your stylist? Tell them I just want to talk.

So I was watching the video over and over, trying to figure out what it was made of. I could tell the body was a Korn shirt, but I wasn’t sure if it was a t-shirt or a sweatshirt, and when I looked it up I couldn’t find it. And, for the life of me (or the death of me), I couldn’t figure out what the fuck the sleeves were made out of.

Lucas, move. Please be disrespectful somewhere else.

Okay, Lucas is gone-- Boi, where the fuck are you going?

At first I was thinking maybe a silk, but I wasn’t sure if it was or if he was just moving so fast that the fabric seemed to move that way.

I start googling - as you do when your brain is obsessive over unimportant things because it craves that molecule (serotonin) - and I find grainy pictures of Kun in his shirt and am like… less than impressed. ALSO, I didn’t see a single person say they liked it or whatever, so like… it’s at least two people *less* popular than Lisa’s pants.

Again, honey, I’m so sorry. Please don’t think that I only love you for your pants.

But after watching the video 89279120293840238747 times and wondering if I’m going to even be able to see the next day, I’ve already realized that it’s something the designers made, because I can see the serged hems of the sleeves. And also, after the pants rabbithole, I AM ONTO THEM.

I ALSO, found the fancam of him, but I can’t see fucking SHIT on my phone because despite it being in ULTRA HD, it’s still just a tiny phone screen. I leave it open on my phone so I can watch it tomorrow.

I wake up the next day, cook for four hours (and it feels like MORE hours, amirite?), listen to Taeyong’s “new” raps, and watch the WayV video a few times and do that cute little move during “turning back time,” you know the one.

[I couldn’t find a gif that had just that bit, so you’re all going to have to imagine it in your mind’s eye or watch the music video. I don’t know how to gif things so I am at the mercy of others.]

[EDIT: The first gif in this set. I also want those patched up pants.]

I finish cooking, get ready for work and sit my butt down at my computer, all ready to mute students who forget to mute themselves. I’ll mute the students, I’ll mute the professor, I’ll even mute myself. No one is safe. I wish I could mute my cat as well because she yells at me every time I look at her and I don’t know why.

I also send all the links I had opened on my phone the night before to my laptop.

I remember that SM does Behind The Scenes of everything, and find and watch the behind the scenes of the Turn Back Time music video, just for fun. Just for funsies. Just for funsie wunsies. And honestly, I wanted to see the shit with Hendery in the water tank. I was like, “THEY PUT THEIR TALENT IN A FUCKING TANK??? UNDER WATER???” but it wasn’t as bad as I guess I had imagined it was from the video. I was expecting some Houdini shit where he’d be totally upside down in a vertical tank, but that wasn’t what they actually did.

I also SEE THE SHIRT IN THE BTS AND GUESS WHAT FUCKER???

Dat smile tho.

JUST GUESS!

There IS a drama these days, and it’s me wanting clothes that don’t exist.

IT’S TWO SHIRTS.

I remember I had sent the fancam to my laptop and I open it, and play it in ULTRA HD, and as I watch it…..

I was screaming at this point.

IT’S TWO SHIRTS.

IT’S TWO MOTHERFUCKING SHIRTS.

I slap my hands together because I am equal parts delighted that NOW I KNOW WHY THE SLEEVES ARE SHAPED THAT WAY, and ANNOYED THAT I HAVE FOUND YET ANOTHER GARMENT THAT IS MADE OF MORE THAN ONE OF THAT SAME GARMENT.

Kpop designers be like:

No one: Absolutely no one: Not even the Elder Gods: Kpop designers: What if I made a shoe out of 6 shoes? Everyone and their mother: *judgemental looks* Me 🤡: ....... Me 🤡: Give me

It’s this Korn shirt (which I later found once I could read the words above the Korn logo):

I was going to crop this to just the shirt but then I realized it was on a fucking SPACE JAM BLANKET, and I couldn’t.

And another shirt that I can’t figure out what it is (and it really doesn’t fucking matter) cut down the sides or de-seamed and sewn into sleeves, and then sewn onto the Korn shirt. (The Korn shirt also seems to have been cut so it’s higher in the front than the back, for whatever reason. Fashion I suppose. Someone was exorcising some demons with some scissors on those shirts that day.)

You can see the collar of the second shirt on his shoulder. They literally halved a shirt and went, “You are sleeves now, my child. Live on in your new form.”

Seeing it in the bts made me like BUT WHERE IS IT IN THE MUSIC VIDEO??? And it was literally in it for .5 of a fucking nanosecond in this shot.

**It’s the end now 🤡🤡. Beep beep Richie.

I wasn’t intentionally giving you the time stamp, but I suppose that’s just good praxis.

Like, I had started noticing that the styling for all the many variations of “stages” that kpop (at least NCT) do seem to all be in the song’s music video, and just could not find this stage because the costumes were in the mv for such a short amount of time.

It was apparently also used for this pop up card, and I don’t know enough about kpop shit to know what that means. The print on the exposed sleeve literally looks like those super crowded supermarket ads you see in the newspaper, lol.

Anyway. I want to make this as well because my aspirations are strange and unusual (and I don’t think that’s going to change any time soon), and I figure it might be easier since I don’t have to find four pairs of band logo shorts and all the ones I want have been fucking sold out for months and the company TESTS MY PATIENCE. All I have to find is a shirt I like and something to make the sleeves out of. I think they used two very vintage shirts (since the new version of that Korn shirt looks a lot darker than the one he’s wearing), and I don’t have any old shirts that are big enough to make sleeves like that out of.

So I’ve decided on a Bathory “Blood on Ice” shirt.

Because why fucking not?

It has a lot of color going on on the front while still being a black shirt. Everything I wear is dark so to make a shirt that looks exactly like Kun’s wouldn’t work for me; while my brain recognizes that they are just faded colors, from a “just on their own” perspective they are pastels.

I am legally not allowed to wear them.

I also would not be able to buy that shirt specifically because I never liked Korn and actually really hate their music. That was a fun time in high school, being the only one who hated them 🙄🙄. Weird times.

But anyway, I was thinking maybe a sari fabric for the sleeves... and I MIGHT have impulse bought some before I realized the sleeves were two halves of another shirt. The one I found has a lot of colors in common with the Bathory shirt, but it’d be great in theory...

Before I remembered that cotton and silk are two very different fabrics that need to be washed differently. That’d just be making problems for myself in the future. And I do not like problems or shit that I need to remember to do, so I don’t know what I’m going to do with the fabric now. It’s very pretty though.

So now I’m back to having to use a second shirt but also, the shirts they used for his shirt^2 seem pretty old, and the thrift store near me has perpetually shitty options for clothing (I envy the people who can do most of their Goth styling at thrift stores, I would only be able to go if I wanted to wear late 90s Juicy couture or some ugly shit) and there’s no online bargain bin for vintage shirts.

So like...

I wonder if there’s a way to speed up the wear and tear on a cotton tee? I know you can do salt baths to try and soften the cotton up, but I don’t know if that will work to make the shirt look and feel like it’s a few years older than it actually is so it’s not so stiff and moves in more of the flowy way that it does in the video.

Also, this:

What the fuck, spellcheck?

In the end, I’m not sure which would be easier to accomplish; the pants^4 or the shirt^2. I’m waiting for the end of the trilogy - shoes^6 - to finally completely lose my mind.

(Though, the patched pants in the one Turn Back Time stage would probably be a lot easier to accomplish, lol.)

[iturbide]

One of the things that upsets me about 3h’s writing is the existence of Edelgard’s siblings is actually dubious. She said she only became heir because all her other siblings were dead or insane. She wasn’t the heir or the spare yet no one else talks about her siblings. When an heir disappears, people talk. And it’s not like all the kids were the same age, there would’ve been several pregnancies. The only proof the kids exist is because Edelgard said it and she’s not above lying to others.

Okay, I have seen that theory before, and for as much as I take issue with Edelgard, I personally think that theory is complete bullshit.

[[MORE]]

Edelgard is a woman of remarkable composure.  Even before the timeskip, she is very cool, very guarded, showing minimal emotion (most of which seems to be for show, providing the expected response for the benefit of those around her).  There are only a handful of occasions where we see her slip, see her truly and deeply shaken -- and one of those times is associated with her speaking about her family.  I’m not going to deny that Edelgard is a very capable liar, but she was very obviously disturbed by the dream that brought on the conversation, and I don’t think even she could cobble together a lie that fast under those circumstances.

Also, let’s talk for a moment about just how Edelgard lies.  Her lies are primarily comprised of minor changes to information (”The Church used forbidden magic to destroy Arianrhod” only replaces the perpetrator, not the details), denials of knowledge (she says she has no knowledge of where Flayn is when she does), or omission of information (not telling Byleth that she’s the Flame Emperor despite having several opportunities to do so).  She’s not stupid: lies fabricated whole-cloth require careful construction, often require the same amount of repetition and practice a trained actor would require for a stage role, and in general are really hard to maintain.  Tailoring a lie from truth is much easier and caries significantly less risk.  Under the circumstances, I don’t think Edelgard could have concocted such a lie, and especially not such a powerful one.

It’s also worth mentioning that Lysithea describes an almost identical series of events taking place in Ordelia territory after House Hrym’s revolt:

Eighteen years ago, House Ordelia was involved in a civil conflict within the Empire. All we did was respond to a call for aid. We weren't involved politically. But once the rebellion was crushed, my family was held responsible for the aid we gave, and the Empire gained some sway over us as a result. At the time, the noble houses of the Alliance took a passive stance. No one lent aid to my family. As a result, some key officials within the family were killed, and people from the Empire were sent to replace them. Among those people were some mysterious mages. They were...unsettling, in a word. Skin pale as death. One after another, they captured and imprisoned the children of our household. They began performing terrible rituals on the children... Though it's probably more accurate to call them experiments.

With the Empire monitoring our every move, my parents could do nothing but watch in horror as all of this unfolded. One after another, the children died, until the only one left...was me. You know, my hair wasn't always this color. During their experiments, they'd been doing things with my blood. One morning, I awoke like this — a shock of white hair, all trace of pigment, gone.  Upon seeing me, the mages were delighted. They realized that their experiments had finally succeeded. Sure enough, they ran a test and saw that two Crests coexisted within me. Losing pigment from my hair wasn't the only loss. The mages informed me that my lifespan was now greatly shortened. Five more years at most. Perhaps less.

Shortly thereafter, the mages lost interest in me, and we never saw them in the Ordelia household again.

This is pretty much exactly what happened to Edelgard: young members of the household taken captive and experimented on by a mysterious group of masked mages, no aid from outside, parents forced to bear witness as their children died en masse.  Nobody calls bullshit on Lysithea’s story -- so why are people trying to call Edelgard a liar?  Lysithea and Edelgard’s B support doesn’t unlock until after Byleth makes the choice to side with Edelgard, and their C support makes no mention at all of the experiments, so Edelgard couldn’t have learned it from Lysithea and used it for herself.  The experiments on House Ordelia were the precursor to the experiments in Adrestia, and their loss of interest very likely ties in with them moving on to bigger things -- namely the Imperial lineage and their attempts to imbue the Crest of Flames within a Hresvelg heir.

And this ties into the next point: why nobody talks about it.  And that boils down to propaganda.

Propaganda relies very heavily on control of information.  And empires in general have an ongoing propaganda campaign related to their ruling families: that these are immensely powerful people blessed by gods, goddesses, saints, what have you, and ruling by divine right.  This is especially true in the Empire, where their imperial lineage traces its roots back to Wilhelm von Hresvelg, who forged a pact with Seiros.  Now, in the Empire, an absolute premium is placed on the presence of a Crest -- to the detriment of all else, including human life.  Hanneman’s sister lost her life and Mercedes’ family was ripped apart all because of the extreme Crest bias present in the Imperial territories.  But with Ionius, there was an even bigger issue: his ‘Divine Right to Rule’ is intrinsically linked to the Crest of Seiros, the physical proof of his bloodline’s pact with the Saint. 

And that bloodline is fading fast.

In Edelgard’s B+ support with Byleth, she says this:

My siblings and I were...we were imprisoned underground, beneath the palace.  The objective was to endow our bodies with the power of a Major Crest.  I have always possessed the Crest of Seiros, inherited through the Hresvelg bloodline.  But it was only a Minor Crest, and most of my siblings bore no Crest at all.  In order to create a peerless emperor to rule Fódlan, they violated our bodies by cutting open our very flesh.  Now here I stand, the fruit of that endeavor: Edelgard von Hresvelg! But that came at too high a price...the others were sacrificed.  Ours weren’t the only lives devastated by that terrible process.  Innocents died as well, without even knowing what they were dying for.  And there you have it, the truth of the Hresvelg’s Empire. 

Out of eleven children Ionius IX sired, only a few bore any kind of Crest (and we don’t know if they were even the Crest of Seiros).  The fact that Edelgard’s Crest was a Minor one rather than a Major one also seems to have been a point of contention.  Which makes sense: in a territory that relies so heavily on Crests as signs of legitimacy, having a Crest appear so infrequently in the Emperor’s progeny would be a frankly alarming sign of weakness.  So I would not be at all surprised if Ionius had been carefully controlling the information moving from the Imperial household to the wider Empire...such that they didn’t know how many kids he really had. 

Unlike the Kingdom, where Lambert only had one wife at any given time and whose pregnancies would therefore be talk of the Kingdom since she’s a public figure, the Empire allows (and perhaps even encourages) the use of consorts.  And immediately after being crowned, Ionius started seeking out suitable ones -- but their identities were not required to be public knowledge.  Sure, the wider Imperial household would have been aware, and it’s likely that the heads of some major noble houses with a presence in the palace knew, as well -- though even they may have been tight-lipped about it with their families to control the spread of information (and this has in-game precedence, given that Ferdinand von Aegir has no idea what happened with Hrym or why people hate his dad so much).  But the only Empire-wide announcements came with the birth of children who actually possessed Crests.  And even then, it’s entirely likely that Edelgard’s place in the line of succession might have been superseded had one of her younger siblings borne a Major Crest of Seiros.

(If this seems far-fetched, I think Alexei Romanov makes a striking point of comparison here: the youngest child and only son of the Romanov Dynasty, he was set to become the next Tsar of Russia -- because his hemophilia was a closely guarded state secret.  It might be common knowledge now, but the Russian public had no idea what was really wrong with him.)

Now, we don’t know a lot of details for this particular time period.  We know Edelgard had ten siblings, but we don’t know if Ionius kept trying to sire heirs and had no success (issues with impotency, miscarriages, etc) or stopped trying and took a different tack.  What we do know is that he instigated a series of reforms meant to concentrate the Emperor’s power.  We don’t know why he did it, but it’s entirely possible that he was trying to look out for his kids and pave the way for more radical reforms that would do away with the Crest bias as a form of choosing ‘legitimate’ heirs to the throne.  But whatever his plan might have been, it backfired terribly on him and led to the Insurrection of the Seven, where the Emperor was stripped of all power and his kids were subjected to Twisted experiments, likely initiated when they replaced Lord Arundel and had him float the idea to Duke Aegir -- and once again, that control of information even within families is out in force, because the nobles now controlling the empire probably don’t want it to be common knowledge that they’re committing atrocities for the sake of making a perfect figurehead.

In the end, every one of Edelgard’s siblings died.  And because the people of the Empire didn’t know about them?  She can’t even mourn them publicly.  The Empire has no inkling of the great tragedy that occurred within House Hresvelg, and that only further fuels the lone survivor’s desire to make sure that nothing like this can ever happen again.

[biofunmy]

Can Recycled Rags Fix Fashion’s Waste Problem?

Tucked away in the bowels of the Brooklyn Army Terminal is a 4,000-square-foot warehouse filled from wall to wall and floor to ceiling with garbage bags. They contain castoffs from New York’s fashion studios: mock-up pockets ripped from sample jeans, swatches in next season’s paisley print.

There is denim here in every wash, spandex in every hue. Dig through one bag and it is possible to find a little rug of carmine-colored fur and yards of gray pinstripe wool suiting. In another, embroidered patches from GapKids and spools of ribbon in velvet and lace.

Nearly 6,000 pounds of textile scraps arrive each week to be inspected, sorted and recycled by five staffers and many more volunteers at FabScrap, the nonprofit behind this operation. Since 2016, it has helped New York’s fashion studios recycle their design-room discards — the mutilated garments, dead-stock rolls and swatches that designers use to pick materials and assess prototypes.

So far, the organization has collected close to half a million pounds of fabric from the design studios of large retailers like Express, J. Crew and Marc Jacobs and independent clothiers in New York, New Jersey and Connecticut. Their discards have been shredded and recycled into stuffing and insulation or resold to fashion students, educators and artists.

“So much waste gets created in the design process,” said Jessica Schreiber, the executive director of FabScrap. “But it’s the tip of the iceberg.”

As climate change has accelerated, corporations of all kinds have become increasingly preoccupied with their sustainability cred. Four-fifths of consumers feel strongly that companies should implement programs to improve the environment, according to a recent Nielsen study.

Clothing companies in particular have faced pressure to change, from politicians, protesters at fashion shows and shoppers of all ages who want to reduce their carbon footprints. The fashion industry is often erroneously cited as the second-most polluting business in the world, but overproduction, chemical use, carbon emissions and waste are certainly issues it contends with.

Ms. Schreiber understood early the angst that waste was causing designers. In 2014, she was overseeing the Department of Sanitation’s refashionNYC program, which collects old clothing and textiles at farmers’ markets and in participating apartment buildings.

She received a string of similar calls from brands including J. Crew, Eileen Fisher, Express, Mara Hoffman and Marc Jacobs. The companies were sitting on piles of seasonal prints and swatches that couldn’t be donated but shouldn’t be thrown out.

“It really hit a nerve with people,” Ms. Schreiber said. Half of the designers had resorted to hoarding scraps under their desks as they tried — and failed — to find places to give them away. “There was a lot of guilt,” she said, and no clear path.

Spinning a Sustainable Yarn

For a designer, cutting down on waste isn’t as simple as recycling a few bags of fabric every week. It requires overhauling the brand’s business model: forgoing seasonal collections; eschewing — or being rejected by — traditional retailers that accept only large orders and standard packaging; selling directly to consumers; and getting design teams to think about the sustainability and supply chain of each material and garment.

Dana Davis, the vice president of sustainability at Mara Hoffman and an early FabScrap adopter, remembered feeling anxious about how the company could better deal with waste. “It just felt burdensome,” she said. But after a conversation with Ms. Hoffman, the designer, it became clear to them that change was necessary.

The company began shipping swimwear in compostable bags and made long-term commitments to the materials it purchased. To cut excess inventory, the brand moved away from the fashion cycle and the industry norm of placing orders on projection.

There are still challenges — like making sure consumers and retailers actually compost the bags — but other brands are getting on board with changes at the design, manufacturing and distributional levels.

It’s hard to pinpoint how much waste is created before a garment even reaches the consumer. Factory waste is not tracked by outside agencies. Supply chains are now so complex and reliant on remote contractors and subcontractors that the companies can’t account for all the materials.

Even if a brand wanted to find out how much fabric waste it created, “it would be very difficult for them to research that, because different factories might have different processes,” said Timo Rinassen, an assistant professor of sustainability at Parsons School of Design.

Wendy Waugh, the senior vice president of sustainability at Theory and a FabScrap client, knew that determining the brand’s total waste would be a challenge. The company works with many different fibers, which are sourced from all over the world. The company’s “Good Wool,” for instances, comes from a farm in Tasmania, and is scoured, spun and dyed at a mill in Italy before it is warehoused and sold around the world.

After a fiber is harvested and spun, it is sent to a factory where it is cut, dyed and trimmed. Reverse Resources, a software company that works with major apparel factories in Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, found that 20 percent of the fabric used in the cut-make-trim phase is ultimately thrown out.

Linda Greer, the founder of the Clean by Design program and a former toxicologist at the N.R.D.C., has advised many garment and dyeing factories in China. She said that brands frequently reject fabrics because they don’t match the desired shade exactly.

“I’ve seen so many ‘weeping piles’ of miscolored fabric,” Ms. Greer said. “Sometimes they can touch it up. And sometimes they throw it away.”

Once a garment is complete, it can present another problem: excess inventory. In some cases those garments are incinerated, which prevents them from being resold at a discount, Mr. Rinassen said.

Last year, Burberry burned $37 million of clothing and cosmetics to maintain “brand value.” The previous year, H&M came under scrutiny after it was reported to have incinerated 60 tons of unsold merchandise.

Stephanie Benedetto founded Queen of Raw, an online marketplace for dead-stock fabrics and a FabScrap partner, after seeing how much manufactured material was sitting in warehouses ($120 billion worth, by her estimate). At that volume, she said, waste isn’t just environmentally irresponsible — it’s “a C.F.O. issue.”

Apparently, also, a marketing issue. Fashion companies have been quick to invest in environmentally friendly marketing. There have been capsule collections derived from natural fibers like orange pulp (Salvatore Ferragamo), pineapple leaves (H&M), grape skin (& Other Stories) and mushrooms (Stella McCartney), and a wide selection of recycled polyester made from fishing nets (Burberry) and beach-strewn plastic bottles (Adidas).

These usually amount to little more than P.R. gambits and short-term fixes.

Samantha MacBride, an assistant professor at Baruch College and a former waste management professional, said that the ideas big brands implement often reflect a lack of understanding about waste management.

The way to minimize trash, she said, isn’t by devising a green marketing strategy or using new technological fixes. “The key is to produce less,” she said.

Sorting Through Scraps

Standing on the FabScrap floor, it is impossible not to feel overwhelmed by the enormous pile of trash.

Ms. Schreiber noted that the bags in the facility were “almost irrelevant in the scheme of what is probably generated.” None of the overstocked garments languishing in company warehouses are here. Nor are the huge quantities of fabric that are tossed from the factory floor.

Beneath the heap, seven volunteers slowly and manually sorted by material every scrap that came in. They inspected and removed labels and rubbed the fabric between their fingers. It could not have been further from the mechanized processes at a recycling plant, which employ feats of engineering — eddy currents, magnets and near-infrared scanners — to identify and categorize various types of metals, plastic and paper.

There is no technology in use that can detect the differences between, say, spandex and wool. “The infrastructure is lacking,” Ms. Schreiber said. “Like the fact that the sorting still all happens by hand is bonkers.”

The recycling processes are similarly decades behind. Today, there are a number of companies, like Evrnu and WornAgain, that are just beginning to recycle fibers, a process that involves shredding and dissolving the fibers into a pulp that can be respun into a new fabric.

Ms. Schreiber said that if clothing scraps were treated “as a waste-commodity stream, not a nonprofit-managed material, we would be further along in the tech.”

In the back corner of the warehouse is one of FabScrap’s two shops, where it sells many of the larger pieces its employees and volunteers find among the scraps. On any given day, some fashion students stop by, shopping and drawing inspiration from the ends of dead-stock rolls that are cheaper here than at fabric stores in the city.

Jasmine Velazquez, a fashion student at F.I.T., studied some green leather that she wanted to use for an upcoming assignment. “I’d rather buy leather from here than support the industry like that. Sustainability should be more important to me because I am a student,” she said.

In June, FabScrap opened a second shop, on a block in the garment district teeming with secondhand shops, and just a stone’s throw from F.I.T.

Camille Tagle, the director of reuse and partnership at FabScrap and a former evening wear designer at Pamella Roland, pointed out some of the special fabrics that filled the shelves. There were rolls of baby blue suede and white cotton with geometric fil coupé accents. Above the shelves were nearly full cones of thread in colors that evoked a Pantone guide.

“If it doesn’t match by a fraction of a shade, it’s out,” she said.

One piece in particular, a shawl’s length of pink crinkle chiffon with sequined flowers, caught her eye. Each flower had at least three or four colors arranged in a different pattern. “It takes a lot of time,” Ms. Tagle said. “A designer had to communicate all of those details to the mill.”

A steady traffic of students and hobbyists came in to peruse the shelves and scour the scrap bins. Olivia Koval, who is pursuing an M.F.A. in textiles at Parsons, left the shop with a tote bag full of mutilated jeans and denim scraps. She planned to overdye and felt them together to make a larger fabric.

“For people to feel inspired by something that was headed for the trash is really important for me,” Ms. Tagle said.

Since opening six months ago, the Chelsea store has served 4,800 customers. Next year, FabScrap plans to set up operations on the West Coast.

In spite of what she has built, Ms. Schreiber is measured about FabScrap’s success. “This is such a small group of self-selecting companies, and this is a very niche part of their waste stream,” she said. “That’s what’s so frustrating.”

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Detailed Research on Weight Loss

The Best Way to Acquire Rid of 30s

Show the results of some couple of days of exercising. However, when we have been at our 40s, working outside is important. Your body quickly loses its agility in case you do not exercise daily. More over, foot troubles and back aches easily could creep in without the notice. Consistent exercise can be the insurance policy plan contrary to the pains and pains. The very good thing is that exercise doesn't have to be more too inconvenient. That you don't need to invest two hours each day (time there's no necessity) in an expensive fitness center (investing more that you never need). I have a active lifestyle, so my yoga mat along with collapsible exercise bike permit me to get into exercise every day. Finding a fitness regimen that you can do always is your ideal gift you may give yourself.

Look after Your Trainers and rear: Our toes and back do big The Attractiveness and Health habits we'd during our 20s and 30s were Quite Designs, also that I don't think there's any such matter as the ideal scissors. But, you will find some hairstyles which move from the window in your 40s. Hair pulled back into a bun or pony tail serves no longer later 4 5. Believe in mepersonally, '' I believe that the loss. This Evita hair-do was my goto design for many years when I wanted to perform something simple, but tasteful together with my own hair. Nevertheless, as soon as you receive above a certain period, your own hair should irritate your face. Straightened dull cuts really are likewise problematic. They drag down your features, whenever you want a raise! The simplest strategy would be to go for face-framing layers ( with or with out bangs) at any period which leaves you happy.

Perhaps it doesn't be awful in our 40s, but taking care of our own bodies as we age Exercise Everyday: If we're younger, then our own bodies did not Likes to inform me, "taking good care of my own body would be a fulltime occupation!" Nicely, For work done well. Require Your Disposition: That seems boring, does it not? But But by the time we hit on our 40s, our own bodies start to improve. Since Putting 40, my own body parts my breasts, and my bottom, and that regrettable area underneath my arms - want to connect to the floor. Not only that, my stomach is more sensitive, but '' I can't keep up beyond 10 p.m., and basically don't exercise on a regular basis, once more, the total operation starts moving nearer into the floor.

Correct Your Hair-style: I love the Selection of girls Requires some attempt. However, feeling and looking amazing will likely function as revival All that sounds grim, but still being in your 40s is great - indeed! Females in Talking about the sort of function involved in looking for 22 for those who might be forty two. That is ridiculous. I'm referring to the job it takes to become amazing and healthy in your particular age and in your specific body. So below are a few methods to keep your post-40 human anatomy in its attractive.

Yes, even focusing on our post-40 bodies will be work. As my 80-year-old mom Lighter as we grow old as our complexion can not handle such a thing too dim. I talk from experience. This past year I asked my colorist to dye my hair to its normal color. She looked at my origins also did what I asked - she dyed it black. Unfortunately, the haircolor that God gave me personally no more longer suits my head. I looked just like Morticia Addams. It was not good. Once we are more than 40, we are in need of a lighter haircolor that makes the outer skin seem healthier.

But keep ourselves healthy and beautiful post-40 will take do the job. And I recent health am not Rest! : the Idea of how "beauty sleep" always Their own 40s are certain. We are residing inside our bodies for four decades, so so we finally know the method by which they work. All of us are aware of how much rest we call for, and also what exactly our partner must do so that individuals can get an orgasm. We have figured exactly the ideal kind of work out because of your own physique, and then styles look better and worse on us.

Do not Go dim on Haircolor: Our hair color Should be Sounded ridiculous for me personally ... until I hit 40. Gone would be the days when I will stay up until two a.m., but still look great the next day. On these times, when I stay until two pm, the next morning I feel just like I'm ninety. After 40, sleeping makes a large difference in one's visual appeal. Even after an instant 10-minute nap, '' I feel refreshed and around 5 decades young. So make your sleep a priority.

Occupations for all us. They support our burden and make walking easier or harder, based upon their own condition. For all people who don't reside in warm climates, we tend to fail our toes throughout the winter months because they truly aren't visible. However, caring for your feet all year round, for example regular pedicures, in home or in the salon, is very crucial keep the feet healthy. Along with our rear wellness is important. I have thrown my back out multiple times by carelessly lifting large products. Straight back injuries do not heal fast, specially as we age. Be certain that you extend your spine daily, sleep on a business bed, and take good care when lifting either children or furniture. Your back will thank you.

Taking vitamins after 40 will be your difference in between having wholesome appearing skin and glossy hair, and with sallow skin and hair that is a ironic wreck. I take a multi-vitamin and fish oil pills each day. If I overlook a day, my skin, claws and hair show it. So take your vitamins only like once you're a little kid!

Adjust Your Wardrobe: Somewhere between a muumuu plus also a Simple. We simply experienced to do the basics - put on nourishment, workout and try to eat healthy foods. During that period of the own lives, our bodies were resilient. We can stay up late, possess the intermittent dinner that is unhealthy, also jump a handful of days in the gym without a problem.

Mini-skirt with stilettos may be the best means to dress immediately after 40. And over that space, there's a lot of place for individual style. The temptation immediately after 40 is to try to don 20-something garments. But simply since they market your dimension in a tank top or cherry, does not indicate that it seems very good. This is the time on your life if longer is longer. More fabric is more amazing. You want your clothing to cover your imperfections up, and accentuate your strengths. And you want to buy garments that is suitable for well - anything overly big or way too little doesn't work old 22. The way you dress must be about appearing amazing, which isn't exactly the very same as appearing youthful.